Explorer II · Buying guide
Polar or black, modern or vintage — which Explorer II to buy and what drives the value.
The 226570 (2021–, calibre 3285) is the current 42 mm watch. The 216570 (2011–2021) is the earlier 42 mm with the returning orange hand. The 16570 (1989–2011) is a versatile, well-priced modern. The 16550 (1985–1989) introduced the Polar dial and is collectible, especially in 'cream dial' form. The vintage 1655 'Freccione' is a distinct collecting field.
The white 'Polar' dial is the model's signature and often the more requested; the black dial wears more like a tool watch. Both have been offered since the 16550. Choose by taste — legibility and patina differ, value is broadly similar.
Early 16550 dials that aged to cream/ivory ('cream dial') carry a strong premium. Correct, original 1655 Freccione examples — with the right dial 'Mark' and orange hand — are sought and faked, so authenticate. On moderns, originality and a full set drive value.
The current 226570 is available pre-owned without Daytona-level frenzy; the 16570 is a smart-value modern. Vintage 16550/1655 require specialist scrutiny.
Buying guide FAQ
Only the dial colour — white 'Polar' versus black. Both share the same case, 24-hour bezel, and movement, and both have been offered since the 16550 of 1985.
Some early 16550 Polar dials aged to a warm cream or ivory tone. These 'cream dial' examples are particularly sought by collectors and carry a premium.
The 16570 (1989–2011) is often cited as the value pick — a long-running, versatile modern Explorer II that is more attainable than the current 226570 or collectible vintage references.