Submariner · Generations
From the 1953 no-crown-guard original to the current 41 mm ceramic Sub — every major generation, decoded.
Understanding the generations is the key to buying a Submariner well — each era has a distinct case, bezel material, movement, and collector following.
| Generation | Years | References | Key changes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Early no-date | 1953–1989 | 6204, 5512, 5513 | Aluminium bezel; early models without crown guards; tritium dials |
| First date | 1969–1980 | 1680 | Date and Cyclops added; early 'Red Submariner' dials |
| Transitional | 1979–1988 | 16800, 168000 | Sapphire crystal, 300 m, glossy dials with white-gold surrounds |
| Modern aluminium | 1988–2010 | 16610, 14060 | The definitive modern Sub; Kermit 16610LV in 2003 |
| Ceramic 'Maxi' | 2010–2020 | 116610LN/LV | Cerachrom bezel, broader lugs and markers; the 'Hulk' |
| Current 41 mm | 2020–present | 126610LN/LV, 124060 | Slimmer 41 mm case, calibre 3235/3230, 70-hour reserve |
The pre-ceramic 16610 wears slimmer and more vintage-like; the 116610 'Maxi' era is chunkier with fatter lugs and a polished bezel; the 2020 redesign split the difference, growing to 41 mm but slimming the proportions. Vintage 5513 and 1680 are a different world — smaller, aluminium-bezelled, and collected for patina.
Want a daily modern icon? The 126610LN. Want the last 'affordable classic'? The 16610. Want presence and a discontinued story? The ceramic Hulk. Want vintage character and investment potential? A correct 1680 or 5513, bought with care.
Generations FAQ
Broadly six: early no-date (5513), first date (1680), sapphire transitional (16800), modern aluminium (16610), ceramic 'Maxi' (116610), and the current 41 mm (126610/124060).
The case grew slightly to 41 mm but the proportions were slimmed from the chunky 'Maxi' era, and it received the calibre 3235 (or 3230 for no-date) with a 70-hour power reserve.
The 16610 (1988–2010) is often cited as the best value — the last aluminium-bezel modern Submariner, robust, serviceable, and more affordable than ceramic models.